Pertois-Moriset Le Quatre Terroirs is a superb Blanc de Blancs from the four Grand Cru villages of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Chouilly and Cramant.

The wine has a surprisingly fruity nose for a champagne of white peaches and plums, plus a delicate aroma of chamomile, butter and brioche. It is also a bit creamier on the palate than the “Spécial Club” sparkling wine and, in addition to ripe apple fruit, has spicy notes of toast and caramel. Wonderfully incorporated acidity, tight perlage, finishes with fine frosting and delicious stone fruit notes.

At first glance, everything here is a little more opulent and full, but it does not lose its finesse and remains an elegant dancer. A powerful yet stimulating Blanc de Blancs-which should be enjoyed throughout the meal from the wide goblets, but is also an excellent choice to start the evening.